Issue No. 23

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Bruno Jamais: Citizen of the World, Restaurateur, Quattroporte Owner
Mixing Passions

Much as the Maserati Quattroporte is everyone’s idea of the ultimate Italian sports sedan, Bruno Jamais is everything one hopes a French restaurateur will be.  Bruno, a Parisian by birth, a New Yorker by choice, and a citizen of the world by inclination, is the proprietor of an eponymous supper club located at 24 East 81st St between Madison and 5th Avenues.  One can always tell when Bruno is at the club because his Bordeaux Maserati is parked outside.  As Bruno will tell you, it is the perfect car for a man of practicality, whose life has been dedicated to service in perfecting sensual elements of the luxury lifestyle, and who has a keen appreciation for high performance.

In the context of this most exclusive neighborhood, the deep red Quattroporte stands out.  With wind-carved Pininfarina styling, its sumptuous leather seats and deep wood trim, it is also very inviting on this crisp, cool evening. Entering the classic East Side brownstone to meet Bruno over an aperitif and hors d’oeuvres, one passes first through an enormous climate-controlled corridor which houses about 2,000 bottles of fine wine chosen for the restaurant by Bruno and his sommelier.  Among the bottles of wine are vibrant works of modern art, a combination which at once builds anticipation and assures a sense of cozy relaxation.  “I wanted my restaurant to be an oasis in the city for those who glory in the excitement of Manhattan, but also a friendly, energetic and special atmosphere in which to socialize and enjoy great food.”   

Bruno’s goal is realized by the dining room one enters through a sweeping glass door from the wine corridor.  A classic bar to one’s left gives way to a spacious arrangement of tables and comfortable chairs.  Set for dinner, and with early patrons already beginning their meals, the warm colors and artfully angled mirrors provide light and privacy in just the right measure.  Music plays just softly enough to allow private conversation, and the very attentive staff glide silently through the room as one reflects that Bruno Jamais, is a space that pays homage to excellence and balance, and one favored by celebrities from the entertainment, arts and political worlds. 

Explaining a little about his storied career, Bruno tells us about his youth in Paris, where he “absorbed culture and a sense of the things than stimulate people” at every turn.  The most important of these, he decided, were food, art, society and a feeling of “specialness” that should infuse all things.  “Exclusivity is good in all these fields, but it does not need to mean that only a very few can enjoy something.  That is something I learned early.  Exclusivity can mean that an experience is special, very personal, even when others are apparently enjoying the same thing.  This is what makes an experience unique and memorable.” 

Bruno views this as a key to his enjoyment of the Quattroporte for, along with food, wine and travel, Bruno learned early on that his passion for cars was deeply important to him. “It is nice that I do not see a Maserati at every turn, but that alone is not what makes the car special.  It is the fact that every Maserati is in another class from its competition.  In fact, I would say there is no real competition.  Mercedes, BMW, even Bentleys, we have them all lined up on the street outside and they do not compare to the Maserati.  I’ve driven them all, and they are fine cars, but they are not sporting.  But above all, they are all the same.  I appreciate that Maserati allows me to have exactly the Maserati I want.  It is a special experience.  This is what we strive for in fine dining.”

Bruno knows fine dining; when using the term he speaks not only of the components, of the food and wine, but of the whole experience, which should be positively memorable.  Bruno gained his own experience first in his family’s restaurants in Paris before moving to the highest echelons of haute cuisine.   As maitre d’hotel to two of the world’s greatest chefs, Alain Ducasse and Daniel Boulud, Bruno absorbed much of what there is to know about providing the optimal experience before opening Bruno Jamais in 2002.  “This is not a job, it is a passion. You cannot do it well without knowledge and passion.” 

Bruno recognizes the same passion and love of artistry in Maserati.  “Every trip is infused with the excitement of driving - but it is more than this, because more than half of any enjoyment is anticipation, and the anticipation of driving a Maserati is fantastic.”  Lured by the combination of beauty, exceptional performance, and the indefinably special character of the Trident, Bruno bought his first Maserati when he was quite young and living in France.

“It is not ‘perfect but antiseptic’ like a Porsche, and it is not so flashy as a Ferrari or Lamborghini.  They are all great sports cars, but the Maserati is more real while remaining special.”  His first Maserati in America was a 2002 Spyder which he loved, but “it was not quite practical enough for a family, and sometimes one needs to be more subtle.”  His Quattroporte meets Bruno’s expectations.  “No other sports car has four doors.  I looked at many other cars to be sure I was not missing anything, but I wasn’t – so I bought another Maserati.”  Unfortunately, with all the work of running a restaurant, he does not have enough time to enjoy his Quattroporte as much as he would like, but “it is my every day car, and in my drive between home and the restaurant we both get some good exercise!”

As he speaks of driving, Bruno’s hands move lightly in the air, mimicking the actions of steering and flicking the shift paddles. Bruno’s only wish might be for a transmission with a manually operated clutch, but he recognizes that his desire is not a normal one.  He is not an average buyer: on the day we spoke, he had just returned from racing school. “The DuoSelect is the best possible option, it is well matched to the engine, and it provides great enjoyment.” 

As we enjoyed the superb Lobster brulee and a Merlot, Bruno told me a little of his philosophy about the twin sensual passions of cars and food.  “The French are known for their food, and it is some of the best in the world, but there are many fine culinary traditions.  To master any is a great accomplishment, and to provide a superb service at the same time is rare.  One of my goals for Bruno Jamais was to make a supper club in the old sense, a place for people to come and relax, have fun, dance and be themselves with great food and wines.  If their memories are good, then I have achieved my goal.  In the world of cars the goals are the same, but there are differences.  Many nations make wonderful cars, but Italian cars are very special.  Italy understands exactly what makes a luxury sports car special, and Maserati is the best at this.  It is available to anyone who can afford it, but every one is rare because every one is different.  It has the right amount of power, and the handling is almost like a racing car.  Every moment in the car is special.”  Since service is key to the fine dining experience, what about the automotive experience?  “I cannot speak for every dealership, but I am sure Maserati has high standards.  My own experience is with Miller Motor Cars, and they are perfect.  They have enhanced my anticipation and the experience as an owner.  When my car needs maintenance, they come and get it with a flatbed truck, and they make sure I have something good to drive.  Maserati knows what I want even before I do; it is the same with excellent restaurant staff.”  From a man whose eminently successful career has been based on excellence in service and experience, this is very high praise.

A few weeks later we were again fortunate enough to be at Bruno Jamais, this time for an event of the sort which is dear to Bruno’s heart.  Along with the artistry of food and cars, Bruno is an aficionado of music and the visual arts.  Music is a prominent feature of an evening at the restaurant, and it was recently paired with an exhibition by painter Cyrille Margarit.

The launch was a grand affair, the restaurant packed with invited guests, and Bruno’s goal of providing a positively memorable experience was once again met.  Outside, drawing attention from everyone who came and went, was Bruno’s immaculate wine-colored Quattroporte.  When you dine at Bruno Jamais be sure to ask about it, and Bruno will tell you that his own exacting expectations as a driving enthusiast continue to be met by Maserati. 

His favorite drink: Depends on the situation, but usually a good Bordeaux
His favorite meal: a very good one.  Not necessarily complicated, but well prepared and presented.
His favorite movie: Any good action-adventure, for some escape
Favorite genre of music: Jazz, Classical, and some Eighties pop
Favorite vacation spot: St. Tropez
Places to which he most likes to return: New York, Paris, and St. Tropez
Place he would most like to visit for the first time: somewhere in South America or Antarctica
Favorite alternate profession: Racing car driver
Favorite natural wonder: The Ocean
Person he most admires: His daughter

His car: A Maserati Quattroporte DuoSelect

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